Two-Night Stay in Nikko, Japan – From Tokyo to Nikko

Tokyo to Utsunomiya: Board the JR Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Utsunomiya Station. The journey takes approximately 50 minutes.

Utsunomiya to Nikko: From Utsunomiya Station, transfer to the JR Nikko Line, which will take you directly to Nikko Station in approximately 45 minutes.

Nikko City is a hilly, rugged region with an average elevation of 2,628 ft and a maximum elevation of 8,074 ft (mountains). As of 2020, the population is over 80,000, and the total area is approximately 560 square miles. The city is heavily dependent on tourism, and you can feel that vibe as soon as you arrive in this small mountain city.

There are beautiful lakes,  hot springs, and enchanting shrines, making for a well-rounded travel experience—provided you visit in summer or fall.

How to Navigate and Explore Some of the Best Hiking Trails in Nikko?

The local shuttle service is very convenient for pick-up and drop-off at the national park, where most of the trails and scenic lookout points are located. Here are a few hikes you can try:

• Mount Nantai – Nikko Futarasan-Jinja Shrine: Hard
• Senjogahara – Odashirogahara: Moderate to easy
• Ryuokyo Gorge: Moderately challenging

Disclaimer: We had planned several hikes during our trip in March; however, unexpected snowfall prevented us from proceeding. 

If you’re planning to hike during this time of year, be prepared with proper winter hiking gear, including gaiters and spikes for your shoes.  On the day we arrived, it was raining in town, which meant snow on the mountain, making the trails even colder and more challenging. We attempted to hike but turned back due to the snow-covered paths. The bus ride to the trailhead took about an hour, and after realizing the conditions, we waited for half an hour before taking the bus back.

Our visit fell on a Wednesday, and we found that most restaurants were closed that day. Even the only bar offering locally brewed beer was closed on both Wednesday and Thursday, so we, unfortunately, missed out on tasting it. However, there were plenty of cafes serving coffee and cheesecake.

One thing to note is that many restaurants close after lunch, around 3 PM. We arrived in town around 4 PM and had a hard time finding a place for a quick snack, needing to wait until dinner service, which usually begins around 6 or 7 PM. Nikko felt like a seasonal tourist town, with many places appearing to operate only during peak times — summer and fall being the most popular seasons, especially for fall foliage hikes.

Despite the off-season atmosphere, we enjoyed our two days in Nikko. The shrines were absolutely breathtaking, particularly the Toshogu Shrine, renowned for its intricate and elaborate structure with layers of beautiful detail. If you’re planning a visit, keep in mind that the shrines close between 4 and 6 PM, and since it gets dark earlier in the mountains, you’ll want to give yourself enough time to explore, especially on a day trip.

Accommodation is convenient, with many hotels close to the main tourist attractions, restaurants, bus stops, and train station. Buses run every half hour, making it easy to get around and see the sights.

Exploring Nikko’s Cultural Heritage

Aside from its natural beauty, Nikko is famous for the mausoleum of shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu at the Nikkō Tōshō-gū shrine, which attracts tourists from all over the world.

There is a Japanese saying, 「日光を見ずして結構と言うなかれ」, which means:
“Never call anything magnificent (kekkō) until you’ve seen Nikkō.”

Toshogu Shrine

Toshogu Shrine, located in Nikko, Japan, is a magnificent memorial dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. This shrine is part of a UNESCO World Heritage site and is renowned for its intricate carvings, vibrant colors, and lavish decoration. This temple stands out from the simplicity typically seen in other Japanese shrine architecture.

Intricate Designs on a wall at at Toshogu Shrine

The intricate designs are beautifully detailed, with carvings of mythical creatures like kirins, dragons, and phoenixes mixed with floral patterns. Each carving looks full of life, with flowing shapes and gold accents that make it stand out. The textures are amazing, with fine details and bold and raised sections that add depth. It’s a perfect example of the skill and care the artisans put into creating something both meaningful and magnificent.

Originally, the shrine was a simple mausoleum for Tokugawa Ieyasu. However, in the 17th century, his grandson, Tokugawa Iemitsu, transformed it into a grand complex in 1603 after his victory at the Battle of Sekigahara.

Tokugawa Shogunate is one of Japan’s Three Major Shogunates:

1. Kamakura Shogunate (1185–1333)
2. Ashikaga Shogunate (1336–1573)
3. Tokugawa Shogunate (1603–1868)

From 1192 to 1867, Japan’s shogunate system was a feudal setup in which shoguns, the military leaders, held most of the power, while the emperor primarily held a symbolic role.

The present shrine comprises over 50 buildings, including the famous Yomeimon Gate, known for its elaborate carvings and gold leaf embellishments. The gate is also called Higurashi-no-mon (日暮の門), meaning one could gaze at it until sunset without getting tired.

“Yomeimon Gate is Japan’s most elaborately decorated gate, featuring 508 intricate carvings. These include dragons, flying horses, and mythical creatures adorning the upper sections, while carvings of people are placed on the lower parts. The human figures symbolize political ideals, wisdom, and celebrate Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu’s achievements in bringing peace and prosperity to Japan. Interestingly, one of the pillars at the back left of the gate was deliberately installed upside down. This was done to ensure the gate wouldn’t be seen as fully complete, as perfection was believed to attract bad luck.” ~ Displayed on-site at the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko.

Other highlights include:

• The five-story pagoda: A pagoda is a tiered tower seen across Asia, especially in Buddhist temples. Its design is inspired by the ancient Buddhist stupa, which originally served as a structure for housing sacred relics in India during early Buddhist times. 
• Sleeping Cat (Nemuri Neko): This small, famous carving symbolizes peace and serenity. Cat is also associated with spiritual protection, as it guards the path to sacred spaces within the shrine.
• Three Wise Monkeys (Sanzaru): Representing “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. The “Three Wise Monkeys” carving at the Tōshō-gū Shrine in Nikkō, Japan, combines elements from Buddhism and Confucianism. It’s all about staying mindful, avoiding negativity in your thoughts, words, and actions, and living with kindness.
• Grave of Tokugawa Ieyasu: A serene and sacred spot reached by climbing a long flight of stone steps

These carvings are believed to be the work of Hidari Jingorō, an Edo-period artist. Legend has it that he lost his right hand due to jealousy from his rivals but continued creating art with his left hand. His name, Hidari, means ‘left.’

The Yomeimon Gate at Toshogu Shrine: A Masterpiece of Extravagant Carvings

You will see a sign at one of the structures inside the temple complex. The text on the sign is titled “令和七年己巳厄年表”, which translates to “Reiwa 7 (2025) Calendar of Unlucky Years.” It lists specific ages that are traditionally considered unlucky or challenging (known as Yakudoshi) in Japanese culture. The chart categorizes these unlucky years for both men and women, based on their traditional age calculations. The purpose of the chart is to inform visitors so they can perform purification rituals or prayers to ward off misfortune.

令和七年己巳厄年表

The shrine uniquely blends Shinto elements with Buddhist architecture, reflecting the religious practices of that time. Nearby, the Nikko Toshogu Shrine Museum offers insights into the history of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the shrine.

Learning about the key elements of a Shinto shrine and their significance helps visitors appreciate their cultural and spiritual importance.

Key Elements of Shinto Shrines

1. Torii Gate – Marks the entrance to the sacred space.
2. Chōzuya (or Temizuya) – A purification fountain for cleansing hands and mouth before entering.
3. Haiden – The worship hall where visitors offer prayers and make offerings.
4. Honden – The main hall housing the shrine’s sacred object or kami (deity), usually not accessible to the public.
5. Komainu – Guardian lion-dog statues placed at the entrance to ward off evil spirits.
6. Ema and Votive Areas – Spaces where visitors hang wooden plaques with prayers or wishes.
7. Shimenawa and Shide – Sacred ropes and zigzag paper streamers marking holy areas.

Features of Buddhist Shrines

Buddhist shrines often include additional elements such as:

1. Main Hall (Hondo) – The central building enshrining the principal Buddha or deity.
2. Bell Tower (Shōrō) – Houses a large bell used in rituals.
3. Incense Burners – Used for purification and offerings.
4. Statues of Bodhisattvas – Represent enlightened beings who guide others.
5. Stupas – Dome-shaped structures symbolizing the Buddha’s teachings.
6. Pagoda – A tiered tower serving as a reliquary for sacred objects.
7. Serene Garden – Designed for meditation, featuring elements like water, rocks, and plants.

Note: Visitors are required to remove their shoes before entering shrine prayer areas in Japan.

Kanmangafuchi Abyss

Another fascinating site in Nikko is the Kanmangafuchi Abyss, a stunningly peaceful gorge formed by an eruption of Mount Nantai. A riverside walking path leads through the area, featuring around 70 Jizo statues—small stone figures that represent a Bodhisattva who protects the deceased, children, and travelers.

Mount Nantai (男体山, Nantai-san) is an impressive stratovolcano in Nikkō National Park, Tochigi Prefecture, Japan, that is about 2,486 meters (8,156 feet) tall. It is considered a sacred mountain in both Shinto and Buddhist traditions. The name of the mountain means “male body mountain,” and it is often regarded as the “father” among the mountain deities.

Jizo statues, dressed in red bibs and hats, create a uniquely peaceful and almost mystical atmosphere.

Some History About The Gorge

It is said that Kanmagafuchi Abyss is where Fudō Myōō (Acala) appeared in ancient times. The sound of the river flowing through the abyss is reminiscent of the mantra chanted in honor of Fudō Myōō. People believe that the great priest Kokai named the place after the final phrase of the mantra, “Kanman-ga-fuchi.”

Kokai also established Jioji Temple near the site and erected a large stone featuring a carved image of Acala (Fudō Myōō). Unfortunately, the carved image was swept away by a flood in 1902, but the Sanskrit character “Kanman” remains etched into the rock to this day.

Fudō Myōō is depicted with flames that burn the evil desires on the way to enlightenment of an ascetic. Enlightenment is often linked to the concept of purification—letting go of attachments and desires that hinder spiritual growth. This journey of self-discipline and inner cleansing is central to many practices in Buddhism.

Fudō Myōō, or Acala in Sanskrit, is a revered deity in Japanese Buddhism, symbolizing  steadfastness and determination. It is one of the five wisdom kings, also known as the “Immovable Wisdom King,” and represents compassion and protection, guiding people toward enlightenment and shielding them from negativity.

The Kanmagafuchi Abyss

This site holds deep spiritual and historical significance and is revered in Japanese Buddhism. The Sanskrit carving “Kanman” can be found etched into a rock opposite the river.