Hiking in Shigar, Skardu

Shigar is famous for its many hiking trails, so we decided to spend two nights there. On the first day, we explored the Shigar Valley, walking through narrow alleys, wheat fields, and orchards. It was the fruit season for apricots, cherries, and mulberries at the end of June when we visited. Locals kindly offered us fresh cherries and mulberries, which are rich in antioxidants and vitamins. Moreover, all their crops are organic.

The next day, we decided to take on a long and strenuous hike, as we were preparing for the K2 Base Camp trek in a month. We needed to begin acclimatizing to the high-altitude, low-oxygen environment before starting our K2 adventure. We chose the Thalle La Trek (also spelled Thale La). Although the full trek typically takes 3 to 4 days, we didn’t have enough time in Shigar to complete the entire route. Instead, we hiked the final section.

Thalle La is usually trekked from Hushe to Shigar, but we did it in reverse, from Shigar to Bangma Haral, which is the final leg of the Shigar-to-Hushe trek. This section is typically the final leg of the full trek and is usually done during the descent, as starting from this end involves a steeper and more strenuous climb.

Hiking the Thalle La Trek: From Shigar to Bangma Haral (Elevation: 3,380 meters)

The hiking trail begins right at Shigar Fort, which made it very convenient for us since we were staying at the Shigar Fort Guest House. We started our hike at 6:00 AM to avoid the scorching June heat. Yes, Shigar/Skardu can get quite hot and dusty during the summer due to minimal rainfall and a lack of vegetation. The terrain in Skardu is dry and barren, offering little to no shade, so temperatures around 90°F (32°C) can feel even hotter when you’re burning calories on an uphill climb.

It’s important to note that the first half of the trail follows a forest road—an unpaved, broken road stretching about six kilometers (four miles). The road is currently under construction and may extend further in the coming months. While we didn’t encounter any jeeps, tire marks were visible in places along the route. A few motorbikes were parked at the end of the track, where the actual hiking trail begins—likely belonging to campers. Since we wanted a longer and more challenging hike, we chose to walk the entire way from the fort.

The first part, about 5.5 km (3.5 miles), was easy to moderate, but the last 7 km (4.5 miles) was relatively steep and strenuous, though not technically challenging.
You can view the Gaia GPS statistics and route information here: Gaia Map Link

Below is the image of the spot where the forest road ends, and the trail continues on foot.

This is where the forest road ends and the hiking trail begins

What to Expect During the Hike

The entire trail runs alongside a raging mountain stream. On one side, you’ll see a steep creek canyon; on the other, towering mountains. At times, the path follows a narrow ridge. The trail becomes dusty and rocky in sections, but it is neither technically difficult nor dangerous, though it does require a reasonable level of caution. Along the way, you’ll need to cross two suspension bridges and ford the stream a couple of times (not difficult at all).

A shepherd with a woven basket on his back

You’ll likely encounter shepherds guiding their cattle to graze in the high-altitude grasslands. It is customary in this region for herders to take their livestock up the mountains in the morning and bring them back in the evening. Some even move their herds seasonally, spending the summer months in higher pastures where grazing is plentiful.

Interestingly, we didn’t come across any other hikers, neither locals nor foreigners, throughout our entire hike.

Disclaimer: We finished and turned back from Marfoshoo, about 1 km before Bangma Haral.

Marfoshoo is a shepherd’s refuge with a small mosque and the Chutney Rock. Chutney rock is legendary among the locals. There is an indentation (looks like a tiger paw) in a rock. Locals bring fresh ingredients and spices to hand-grind chutney in that indentation and scoop it with local bread, a very tasty treat.

Chutney and Roti -Salsa and Bread

We took a short break, lying down inside the mosque to rest for about half an hour before beginning our descent, which was another ten miles to go.

Total Time and Experience

The total hike took 9 hours, out of which 2.5 hours were spent resting, and 6 hours and 30 minutes were spent moving. Our guide brought along pink salt tea, a traditional drink of the Skardu region, along with local bread. We enjoyed this simple yet nourishing refreshment every couple of hours. Toward the end of the hike, they also prepared a fresh chutney, a salsa-like mix made with tomatoes, onions, garlic, green chilies (likely serrano), and cilantro. We also took some time to rest inside a small mosque along the way. Below is an image of the rustic refuge. Inside, it was surprisingly cozy, and we rested on the prayer rugs laid out on the floor. Moreover, a local singer cum poet stopped for a little chat and sang some of his recent written verses. All of these breaks combined accounted for our 2.5 hours of non-moving time.

The rustic refuge, end of the hike

Water and Food Supply

The stream water is very muddy, but there are springs along the route where you can refill your bottle. You won’t need to carry a large amount of water, but you’ll still need plenty to stay hydrated. Also, pack some food such as hiking bars, trail mix, or nuts, as it’s a long and demanding hike.

Sun and Heat Protection

Start your hike early in the morning. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, wear sunglasses and apply plenty of sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun. Always wear a long-sleeved shirt, I got sunburned on my arms, so don’t make the same mistake!