Hippie Trail Reflections: Were They Chasing Spiritual Enlightenment or Psychedelic Dreams?

Post-War Explorations: From Disillusionment to Discovery

After World War II, the disenfranchised and disoriented generation began questioning their values and sought alternatives, eager to explore the world’s offerings, particularly the East. Some embraced Eastern cultures, while others returned home, feeling even more disillusioned. This journey of exploration often involved young people in their twenties challenging societal norms. However, as the Cold War intensified, the allure of the East faded. Yet, with the modernization of Eastern nations and the rise of social media, travel interest reignited. People now rediscover and romanticize the old trails through vintage photos and travel groups. Platforms like Airbnb and ridesharing have made travel more affordable, sparking a resurgence in following the old Hippie Trail routes, blending nostalgic exploration with modern convenience.

The Hippie Trail: A Journey Through Time and Culture

The overland trade route that later became known as the Hippie Trail was not a new discovery by the counterculture movement of the 60s and 70s. Its origins stretch back centuries, serving as a conduit for trade, cultural exchange, and exploration. Initially, trade with India was highly valued by Europeans, but the long overland route faced obstacles and middlemen. The British East India Company established itself in India, obtaining permission to own land, fortify holdings, and conduct trade duty-free. The company’s territorial control expanded after it became involved in hostilities, sidelining rival European companies and eventually overthrowing the Nawab of Bengal in 1757. Later, in 1857, the British suppressed the Mughal Empire during the Indian Rebellion, consolidating their rule over the subcontinent.

Hindu Yogis of Nepal and India

The British ruled India for about 100 years. After World War II, the British Empire was significantly weakened by its defeat by Japan in Southeast Asia. This, coupled with growing independence movements, led to Britain relinquishing control over India in 1947 and dividing the subcontinent into India and Pakistan. Despite their official departure, British nationals continued to move back and forth, maintaining businesses and holding prominent government positions due to their skills and education. This continuity helped to keep the route viable and well-trodden, setting the stage for its adoption by the hippie movement from the 1960s to the 1970s.

Pie and Chai in Kathmandu became the party place at the end of the trip, a popular spot for travelers to gather and share stories over pie, chai, and high spirits.

The Genesis

In the 1950s, entrepreneur Oswald “Paddy” Garrow-Fisher introduced the Indiaman bus service. Starting from London in 1957, this 12,000-mile journey took passengers to Calcutta and Bombay (now Kolkata and Mumbai) over several weeks. It was a cheaper and more adventurous alternative to expensive flights or boring boat rides. The bus travelled through cities like Paris, Munich, Sofia, Istanbul, Tehran, Lahore, and Delhi. Passengers often stayed in tents, faced frequent delays, and endured bumpy roads. These routes were initially travelled mainly by merchants, officials, and, later, counterculture travellers long before the hippies adopted them.

Hippies on Their overland journey

More bus services followed, including Penn Overland and Swagman Tours. These services became known as “The Magic Bus,” named after an Amsterdam booking agency. Independent travellers also joined the journey, using whatever vehicles they could find. Fire trucks, vans, and even a double-decker bus named “Albert” were adapted for the trip. “Albert” made the journey 15 times, sometimes going as far as Australia.

The Hippie Trail in fact was more than a route; it was a journey into the heart of cultures, a quest for enlightenment, and a celebration of freedom and adventure. This was one of many reasons that the Hippie Trail attracted many influential figures like Steve Jobs, Allen Ginsberg, and Cat Stevens, who were greatly influenced by their experiences in India and the East.

Historian William Dalrymple’s “In Xanadu: A Quest,” recounts his pilgrimage from Jerusalem to Xanadu, retracing Marco Polo’s footsteps. Baba Ram Dass documented his transformative experience with Hindu spiritual practices in “Be Here Now.” Paul Theroux featured his Hippie Trail experiences in his writings. The Beatles traveled to India in the late 1960s to study transcendental meditation with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, significantly shaping their music and worldview.

Rick Steves, Tony and Maureen Wheeler, Mick Jagger, and Jerry Garcia all traveled the Hippie Trail, influencing their work and music. Barack Obama’s memoir “Dreams from My Father” reflects on his travels in Asia in the early 1980s.

Challenges of the Hippie Trail

The Hippie Trail journey was a challenging overland experience, quite different from present-day travels. Travelers encountered issues with border crossings, health, and petty crime while managing documents and finding reliable medical care in unfamiliar places. Encounters with local authorities could lead to unexpected detentions or fines, and disruptions from local strikes and political upheaval could affect travel plans. Additionally, cultural shock and hygiene issues added to the challenges of this journey.

Communication and Documentation

In the 1960s and early 1970s, 35mm film cameras, such as those from Canon or Nikon, were widely popular due to their portability and ease of use. They often used roll film canisters containing 36 exposures. During the Hippie Trail era, staying in touch with loved ones involved various methods. This included using travellers’ checks for secure funds, sending letters, and occasionally making costly and infrequent phone calls due to limited infrastructure. For urgent messages, telegrams were used, offering faster communication than regular mail but still with some delay. These methods reflected the slower pace of communication before the advent of digital technology.

Contrasting Travel Cultures- Past and Present

The Hippie Trail and today’s Gen Z travelers both embody a spirit of exploration and self-expression, driven by a desire for adventure and cultural discovery. However, there are significant differences in their approaches and tools. In the 1960s and 70s, Hippie Trail travelers relied on physical maps and word-of-mouth, embracing the uncertainty of their journey. On the other hand, Gen Z travelers use smartphones, GPS, and social media to document and share their experiences in real time. Despite both groups seeking authentic encounters, Gen Z travelers often mix genuine exploration with curated content and performance, reflecting the modern emphasis on aesthetics and personal branding. White privilege played a role in both eras, but today’s expanded access to travel sees a mix of financial backing and meticulous budgeting among Gen Z adventurers.

The allure of the East was so profound that it left a lasting impression on those who traveled there, even though most of them later settled into conventional life, marriage, and parenthood, ultimately becoming the baby boomer generation. Many still fondly recall special places like Herat in Afghanistan, Kashmir, and Varanasi in India, describing an indescribable feeling that captured their hearts. Despite the passage of years, the memories of these enchanting destinations continue to resonate deeply, reflecting the unique charm and mystique that made the journey unforgettable. The exchange of music between East and West was symbolized by the sitar and guitar, with The Beatles incorporating sitar music by Ravi Shankar into their songs. Everyone knew the greeting “namaste” and the practice of yoga poses, often bringing back Indian kurtas as souvenirs.

The influence of hippies on the youth in the Indian subcontinent was evident as they started adopting various aspects of the hippie lifestyle, such as fashion, music, and a more free-spirited approach to life. The fusion of Western musical elements with traditional Indian sounds created a unique blend that appealed to both Indian and Western audiences. 

A scene from the Indian movie “Hare Rama Hare Krishna,” a Pakistani movie poster from 1975, and Pakistani students in Westernized clothes outside the University of Karachi before the Cold War era all depict the influence of Western travelers who journeyed through the Hippie era and transferred their ideology.

This cultural exchange was prominently depicted in films and music of that time. In 1975, the song “Dam maro dam,” translated as “Take a puff, take a puff,” became a symbol of rebellion, featuring a group of hippies engaging in communal, free-spirited activities and openly smoking marijuana, capturing the spirit of the era. The 1975 Pakistani movie “Miss Hippy” cover art also illustrates how this countercultural movement even permeated mainstream entertainment, reflecting the era’s fascination with the hippie lifestyle.

However, this period of cultural exchange and liberal attitudes was short-lived. The 1971 Indo-Pakistani War, the Iranian Revolution, and the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979 led to coups and Islamic revolutions; in 1976, Nepal enforced harsh anti-drug legislation. As a result, the carefree spirit of the Hippy Trail was lost, and the once adventurous route became a relic of the past.