Osh is a beautiful city in the south of Kyrgyzstan and the second largest city, with a population of 454,858 (Bishkek: 1,151,000). It lies in the Fergana Valley, which has long been known for its fertile land producing orchards, vineyards, melons, and mulberries, as mentioned in Baburnama (the memoir of Babur, the first Mughal ruler). Even today, it remains one of the key agricultural hubs of Central Asia, known for cotton, fruit, and silk.
In antiquity, Fergana was renowned for its prized “heavenly horses,” which became symbols of power in China and played a key role in both the Han dynasty’s expansion into Central Asia and the growth of the Silk Road in the 2nd century BCE. Han dynasty sources described Fergana’s reddish horses as “blood-sweating,” which researchers believe was caused by the parasite Parafilaria multipapillosa, making their skin appear bloodstained and giving them a mystical, divine appearance.
Fergana was a cultural melting pot of Persian, Turkic, Arab, Mongol, and Russian influences, with thriving Islamic centers in cities like Kokand and Osh. Even today, Osh is more conservative than Bishkek, with more women covering their heads and wearing modest clothing (our observation, though anecdotal). Osh also has a significant Uzbek population, one of the largest ethnic groups in the city, contributing to its linguistic, cultural, and culinary diversity. Interestingly, unlike Bishkek, Osh has more signs and menus in English, while Russian or Kyrgyz is more common in Bishkek. However, our guide mentioned that the Kyrgyz government is now promoting the Kyrgyz language nationwide, and as of 2025, businesses are required to use Kyrgyz under a new bill.
Things to Do in Osh
Sulayman Too – The Only UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyrgyzstan
The most important tourist attraction in Osh is Sulayman Too, a mountain revered as sacred since prehistoric times. Though modest in size, it is a classic example of an ancient mountain worship site. Throughout history, people have worshipped in high places such as mountains and hills: Mount Kailash in Tibet (sacred in Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Bon), Mount Sinai in Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, the bamot (high places) of the Israelites, Zoroastrian fire altars on hilltops, and mountains like Olympus and Delphi for the ancient Greeks. These places were not chosen merely for their height, but because they stood out, felt peaceful, and inspired spiritual awe.
Sulayman Too is also mentioned in ancient historical references. Claudius Ptolemy, a Greek-Roman mathematician and astronomer, described it as the “Stone Tower,” a midpoint on the Silk Road, the great overland trade route connecting Europe and Asia until the Mongol disruption in the 13th century. Babur, the Mughal emperor, also passed through this region and vividly described the Fergana Valley, Osh, and its mountains in his Baburnama. He referred to the mountain as Bara-Koh or Bara-Kuh, meaning “Great Mountain” in Persian. Babur admired its prominence and spiritual significance and even built a small chamber on it, which remains one of the tourist attractions today.
Sulayman-Too Archeological Museum on one of peaks
The mountain later came to be known as Sulayman Too, the “Mountain of Solomon,” in the 16th century, with a shrine attributed to Prophet Sulayman (Solomon). Revered in Islam as a prophet with healing powers, he was believed to communicate with animals, birds, and supernatural beings like jinn.
Historians and anthropologists note that the Osh Valley has long been a crossroads of religions such as Totemism, Shamanism, and Zoroastrianism—all systems in which humans form spiritual or ancestral connections with natural objects, animals, or plants. In this worldview, regarding a mountain as sacred and personifying it through a superhuman figure who could communicate with nature was common. Such traditions may have shaped the reverence of figures like Solomon and spread these ideas across the Silk Road, linking Central Asia, Persia, and Canaan.
Regardless of its name, Sulayman Too has been revered as sacred since prehistoric times and was a site of pre-Muslim pilgrimage. Archaeological evidence shows settlements on its slopes over 2,000 years ago, with terraced structures.
Today, visitors come to drape flags, tie cloth pieces, and perform rituals. Some slide on a smooth rock believed to cure back pain, while women seek blessings for childbirth. A short cave holds rainwater that pilgrims use to cure blindness.
Interior of the cave museum
Sites Around the Mountain
Cave Museum
The highlight of Sulayman Too or Throne of Sulaimon is its cave museum, housing an impressive collection of excavated relics and petroglyphs. What struck us most was not only the artifacts, but the museum’s design: carved inside an ancient cave, it feels like a masterpiece itself. The interior is thoughtfully organized into chambers arranged by theme, making the displays clear and visually engaging.
Shamanism is a spiritual practice scene inside the museum
The museum contains ceramic fragments, burial sites, and tools dating back over 3,000 years from settlements on the mountain slopes. The excavation sites are marked on the slopes, and each number corresponds to an artifact displayed in the museum.
Ruins of a Medieval Communal Bath (11th–14th Century)
Communal baths were common in major civilizations from Egypt to Rome to Central Asia. What stands out here is the presence of furnaces believed to have been used to heat the water.
Ancient Settlement on the slope
Ancient Caves and Petroglyphs (8th Century BCE – 1st Century CE)
There are seven ancient caves believed to have been inhabited since antiquity. We did not enter them due to landslide risks, but we saw petroglyphs from the area displayed inside the cave museum. Along the ancient pilgrimage path leading up the mountain, there are also many rocks with petroglyphs. Unfortunately, these petroglyphs were not preserved before the site received UNESCO protection, so a lot of graffiti has defaced them.
Other notable sites include:
- The Mausoleum of Asaf-ibn-Burhiy (18th century)-This mausoleum is part of the Sulaiman-Too museum complex. Local legends say it’s the resting place of Asaf ibn Burhiy, the vizier of King Solomon, who asked to be buried here. The present structure was first built in the 17th century and has been destroyed and rebuilt many times since. It was last restored in the early 1980s.
Mausoleum of Asif ibn Barkhiya
- The Takht-i Suleiman Mosque (16th century)- This is a historic mosque built in the 16th century on the slope of Sulayman-Too, close to the sacred “Throne of Solomon.” Smaller in scale than other mosques in Osh, it served as a prayer space for pilgrims visiting the holy mountain. The mosque follows a modest Central Asian design, blending into the rocky landscape, and reflects the spiritual importance of Sulayman-Too as both an Islamic and pre-Islamic place of worship. Its simple structure made it accessible for travelers and worshippers seeking blessings at the sacred site.
- The Rawat-Abdullakhan Mosque (16th century) -This is one of the oldest surviving mosques in Osh, built in the 16th century at the base of Sulayman-Too. It follows a typical Central Asian architectural style—a portal-dome design with a rectangular plan (about 15.5 × 29 meters) and nine domes. The central dome is the largest, surrounded by smaller ones on each side. It was constructed from well-fired clay bricks, with an impressive eastern façade featuring a tall portal arch that rises above the side sections. The courtyard was once enclosed by walls and lined with hujras—secluded chambers or small rooms traditionally used by students or travelers.
The Gates of Fire where there was a Zoroastrian fire temple
- The Gates of Fire- The Gates of Fire is a memorial on Sulayman-Too in Osh, dedicated to the ancient Zoroastrian fire temple that once stood here. Zoroastrianism, one of the world’s oldest religions, began in this region, where natural gas and oil seeps often caused flames to rise from the earth. Fire became a sacred symbol of purity and divine power, and Sulayman-Too was among the places where people came to worship it. The memorial honors this early tradition and the mountain’s long history as a spiritual center before the arrival of Islam
Visiting Tips
The site is open 24 hours, though the museum closes at 6 p.m. You can come for the sunset and take a short hike even if you don’t want to visit the museum. However, we recommend visiting the museum, as it provides a solid background to the site and also allows you to experience the inside of an ancient cave. You will also see petroglyphs on a rock embedded at the entrance of the cave.
How do I get there?
You can take a taxi or use a ride-sharing app like Indrive or Yandex. While in Kyrgyzstan, we were not able to use Yandex, but Indrive worked conveniently, and taxis were also easy to find quite frequently.
How difficult is the hike to the top?
The hike is not difficult; it feels more like an uphill walk on a well-maintained, stair-like track. From the top of the mountain, you’ll have a great view of the city.